Traditional Japanese colors (Washoku)are adelicatesystemof hues that have been named since ancient times after Japan’s natural landscapes, the changing seasons, and the flora and fauna of the country. From the elegant colors cherished by the aristocracy of the Heian period to the subdued shades popularized by the common people of the Edo period—such as the “48 shades of brown and 100 shades of gray”—a diverse range of colors has evolved alongside the historical context.
Traditional Japanese Colors
The Japanese sense of color is characterized by its ability to capture the subtle changes in nature.
- Red and Crimson Tones
- Vermilion (Shuiro): A vivid, powerful reddish-yellow used on torii gates at Shinto shrines.
- Kurenai: A vivid red dyed with safflower. It has long been considered a noble color.
- Akane-iro: A deep red often used to describe the colors of a sunset sky.
- Blue and Indigo Tones
- Indigo (Aiiro): Also known as “Japan Blue,” this was considered the noble color of the aristocracy during the Heian period.
- Ultramarine (Gunjo-iro): A deep, vivid blue derived from the gemstone lapis lazuli.
- Tsuyukusa-iro: A bright, clear blue reminiscent of the tsuyukusa flower.
- Green and Yellow Tones
- Wakaba-iro (Young Leaf Color): A bright yellow-green reminiscent of plants just sprouting in spring.
- Yamabuki-iro: A vivid yellow with a reddish tint, reminiscent of the yamabuki flower. It is also synonymous with the color of a koban (gold coin).
- Uraha-iro (Underside Leaf Color): A pale, muted green with a whitish hue, reminiscent of the underside of a leaf. This is an elegant color name that has been cherished since the Heian period.
- Purple and Gray (Grayish) Tones
- Purple (Murasaki): Considered the most noble and exalted color since ancient times, it was placed at the very top of the Twelve Ranks of the Imperial Court.
- Wisteria (Fuji-iro): A pale, bright purple reminiscent of wisteria flowers.
- Fukagawa-nez: A subdued gray with a hint of blue that was popular in the Fukagawa district of Edo.
Historical Color Classification
- The Four Primary Colors: It is said that the roots of Japanese colors lie in the four primary colors: “Aka” (Bright), “Kuro” (Dark), “Shiro” (Pure), and “Ao” (Vast).
- Forbidden Colors (Kinji): Colors that were not permitted to be worn by anyone other than those of a specific rank. In particular, the Emperor’s Koro-zome (a type of yellow dye) is still considered an “absolutely forbidden color” today.
- Forty-Eight Browns and One Hundred Grays: These are a diverse range of intermediate colors that emerged during the Edo period when the shogunate’s prohibition on luxury goods banned flashy colors, leading commoners to enjoy subtle nuances within shades of brown and gray.
